From the coastal charm of Santander to Santillana del Mar is a long journey on the Camino del Norte where time slows and the soul finds solace.
Whilst there is a lot of road walking, follow along as we traverse this enchanting route, discovering the magic one step at a time.
Santander to Santillana del Mar Overview
- Distance – 34 km
- From – Santander
- To – Santillana del Mar
- Terrain – Relatively easy, lots of road walking
I first walked the Camino del Norte in 2018 and we have picked up the trail again on the airport side of Santander.
We passed through Santa Cruz de Bezana and the sun was very hot indeed with a temperature of about 32C.
We had stocked up on water and supplies as we didn’t know what local stores would be open. That is always the best way to approach each day on the Camino del Norte as the the infrastructure isn’t as good as the Camino Frances and Camino Ingles routes.
We had been warned the first couple of days from Santander involved a lot of road walking but didn’t realise how much. Be ready for it.
Our strategy for the days walk was to stop often, take in as much water as possible and just enjoy the day.
Our first stop was for Cafe Con Leche and it was amazing as always. I had to have another.
We worked our way along side roads between villages an towns with the hot sun beating down on our backs.
We pass through forests and some shaded areas past the villages of Boo de Pielagos and Mogro before crossing the stone bridge at Oruna. There is a pharmacy at the end of the bridge and the temperature gauge said it was 32C !
The rest of the days walk got progressively hotter and walking on roads made it even more difficult. There isn’t a lot of shade after this bridge.
CAMINO DEL NORTE PLANNER & JOURNAL
- TRACK YOUR PROGRESS AND PREPARATION BEFORE THE CAMINO DEL NORTE
- TOWN BY TOWN MILEAGE DETAILS
- PACKING LIST
- EXPENSES TRACKER
- DAILY JOURNAL
- PAGES TO RECORD STAMPS YOU COLLECT ALONG THE WAY
As you walk along the Camino del Norte, you’ll encounter diverse landscapes, from coastal paths to lush green countryside.
It’s like a visual feast for the senses. And let’s not forget about the food! The gastronomy and food along the Camino is a journey in itself.
From seafood delights in coastal towns to hearty traditional dishes in the inland villages, your taste buds are in for a treat.
As we got to the larger town of Barreda we decided to take another break and had our favourite Camino lunch of a bread baguette, slices of cheese, a tomato and a can of mackerel, by the large factory at the end of the main road.
Its cheap to buy and works together a treat and you can just eat it at the side of the trail, although eating with them at 35C wasn’t enjoyable.
After a fabulous lunch on the trail we had a last 10k of road walking to get to Santillana del Mar and it was asphalt nearly all the way.
A long uphill straight road leads all the way to the village and what a wonderful village it is. beware the road seems to go on or ever but keep straight and you get to the village eventually.
Also be careful as you’re on the road all the way and cars are coming past at quite a speed. lets hope we get off the road tomorrow and get near the sea.
We marched around the cobbled streets looking for our Albergue for the evening as its been a long hot day in the Spanish sun. The stage from Santander to Santillana del Mar has been a challenging walk but lots of fun.
It didn’t take long to find Hospedaje Angelica and what a lovely little place it was with an amazing host. I recommend this accomodation.
Do I need a guidebook for the Camino del Norte
I have walked multiple Camino de Santiago routes and every time I have taken a guidebook to help me along the way.
This really helps with details of villages, bars, cafes and hotels as well as the all important distance and elevation guides.
My favourite for the Camino del Norte is the village to village guide by Matthew Harms, Anna Dintaman and David Landis.
Camino del Norte: Irún to Santiago along Spain's Northern Coast
- Author - Matthew Harms, Anna Dintaman & David Landis
- Village to Village Map Guidebook
- 96 pages
- 3.5 ounces
- 143 detailed stage, city and town maps and elevation profiles including town amenities
Santillana del Mar
Nestled in the heart of Cantabria, Santillana del Mar awaits pilgrims like a medieval treasure, exuding a timeless charm that captivates all who wander its cobblestone streets.
Introduction to Santillana del Mar
Santillana del Mar, often hailed as one of Spain’s most enchanting villages, welcomes weary travelers with open arms.
The journey from Santander culminates in this picturesque destination, offering a haven of medieval architecture, historical significance and an atmosphere that transports visitors back in time.
I would recommend any Pilgrim to stay in this fabulous place for at least one night.
Medieval Marvels and Cobblestone Streets
As you enter Santillana del Mar, it’s like stepping into a living postcard. The village is a museum in itself, with remarkably preserved medieval buildings lining narrow cobblestone streets.
The architecture, including the well-maintained Plaza Mayor, provides a glimpse into the rich history of the region.
The irregularly shaped buildings with wooden balconies create a harmonious blend of aesthetics, making every corner a photo-worthy moment.
Unique Atmosphere and Cultural Significance
Beyond its architectural allure, Santillana del Mar boasts a unique atmosphere that resonates with pilgrims and tourists alike.
The absence of modern structures contributes to an immersive experience, allowing visitors to feel the echoes of centuries past.
The village’s cultural significance is not only found in its buildings but also in its museums and cultural events, providing a deeper understanding of the local heritage.
Lose yourself in the labyrinth of streets, discovering quaint shops, charming cafes, and artisanal boutiques. The absence of cars adds to the tranquility of the village.
Santillana del Mar Cider Tradition
We stopped at one of the local Sidreria’s in Santillana del Mar to get some of the famous local cider and we got a closer look at the famous cider pumping machines.
One of the unique experiences in a sidrería is the art of pouring cider, known as escanciar. It involves a specific pouring technique from a height to aerate the cider and enhance its flavors.
It’s not just a drink; it’s a performance, adding a touch of flair to your cider experience.
We opted for a side pump the have in the bar and the best way to pour cider is to pump it vis this machine putting air bubbles into the drink.
This builds a small froth and releases the flavour. It is only done with small portions of one of two pumps at a time.
We had to have a couple of bottles and really enjoyed the atmosphere talking with other pilgrims along with some great Cantabrian tapas.
Accommodation in Santillana del Mar
After a day of traversing the scenic landscapes and absorbing the medieval charm of Santillana del Mar, finding the perfect place to rest your weary feet becomes a crucial part of any pilgrimage experience.
Fortunately, this enchanting village offers a range of accommodation options to suit various preferences and budgets.
We stayed at the Hospedaje Angelica which was an amazing little hotel.
There is also at the Santillana del Mar Parador Hotel in the centre of the village and its a lovely place to stay if you fancy having a little bit of luxury for the night.
There are lots of choices of accommodation in Santillana del Mar from 1* to 5* and all worth checking out dependant on your budget. Check all the hotels on booking.com and find somewhere within your budget.
Santillana del Mar is a busy tourist destination so I would recommend booking somewhere to stay in this location just to make sure you get something within your daily budget.
Food in Santillana del Mar
Santillana del Mar may be a quaint medieval village, but don’t let its size fool you when it comes to culinary delights.
Despite its historical charm, the village offers a variety of dining options that cater to both locals and visitors alike.
Here’s a glimpse into the culinary scene of Santillana del Mar:
Traditional Cantabrian Cuisine: Many restaurants in Santillana del Mar pride themselves on serving traditional Cantabrian cuisine, highlighting the region’s gastronomic heritage. Expect hearty dishes featuring locally sourced ingredients such as seafood, meats, cheeses, and vegetables.
Rustic Taverns and Sidrerías: For a more casual dining experience, rustic taverns and sidrerías (cider houses) offer a laid-back atmosphere where you can enjoy a meal paired with local cider.
Fine Dining Experiences: Santillana del Mar is also home to a few upscale restaurants that provide fine dining experiences amidst the village’s medieval backdrop.
International Cuisine: While traditional Cantabrian fare takes center stage, you’ll also find restaurants in Santillana del Mar that serve international cuisine, catering to diverse tastes.
In essence, Santillana del Mar may be small in size, but its culinary scene offers a delightful array of flavors and experiences that reflect the rich cultural heritage of Cantabria.
Whether you’re seeking traditional fare, casual dining, or upscale gastronomy, you’ll find something to tantalize your taste buds in this charming medieval village.
Given the popularity of Santillana del Mar among tourists, it’s advisable to make reservations, especially during peak seasons or weekends.
Additionally, don’t hesitate to ask locals or hotel staff for recommendations—they often have insider tips on the best places to dine and can point you towards hidden gems off the beaten path.
Santander to Santillana del Mar - Stage thoughts
In conclusion, the journey from Santander to Santillana del Mar offers a captivating blend of coastal vistas as well as some boring road walking but delivers a surprise at the end of the day in the fantastic historic village of Santillana del Mar.
As you arrive in this beautiful village, your senses are greeted by the tantalizing aromas of traditional Cantabrian cuisine and the crisp tang of local cider.
It’s a fitting reward for a day’s walk.
