Walking the Camino de Santiago: From Las Herrerías to Triacastela

It’s Day 23 on the Camino Frances and todays part of The Camino route sees us walking from Las Herrerias to Triacastela. Its another fantastic stretch of The Camino de Santiago with some lovely villages and towns to pass through again as well as some rather large mountains to climb.

Las Herrerias to Triacastela Overview

  • Distance – 29.1 km
  • from – Las herrerias
  • To – Triacastela
  • Min/Max Elevation – 663m/1337m
  • Elevation gain – 1071m
Once again as it seems to be every day, we are up and out of our albergue at 6am in the morning and believe todays we will be walking our millionth step after 23 days of hard walking.

One of the most picturesque and rewarding sections of this ancient trail is the stretch from Las Herrerías to Triacastela. This scenic journey through the Spanish countryside offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, spiritual introspection, and opportunities to connect with fellow pilgrims. 

In this article, we will delve into the length of this route, highlight the albergues and hostels along the way, and introduce you to some of the numerous bars and cafes that await you.

In the first hour we climbed more than we did in the whole of yesterday and climbed over 2,000 ft. 

It was damn hard and Breakfast awaited us near the top at a little cafe. Coffee and chocolate cake !  Well that’s all they had !

How long is this section from Las Herrerias

The segment from Las Herrerías to Triacastela spans approximately nearly 30 kilometers and has some steep climbs but it is a manageable and enjoyable walk for most pilgrims. 

The trail winds through breathtaking landscapes, encompassing lush valleys, rolling hills, and quaint villages. 

Whether you are an experienced hiker or a first-time pilgrim, there is a certain amount of  physical exertion needed but it also has the opportunity to soak in some magnificent surroundings.

We were also looking forward to passing through the hobbit style hamlet of O Cebreiro which we have heard about for the last few days from other Pilgrims.

O Cebreiro

O Cebreiro is a picturesque village nestled in the Galician mountains of northwestern Spain and its known for its stunning landscapes and rich cultural heritage. It’s altitude is 1,300m and is a good climb to get there.

It also offers a captivating glimpse into rural life. The village is famous for its traditional thatched stone houses, giving it a fairytale-like charm. 

With its historical significance as an important stop along the Camino Frances pilgrimage route, O Cebreiro attracts pilgrims and visitors seeking to experience its unique atmosphere. 

The local cuisine, including hearty Galician dishes and warm hospitality, adds to the allure of this enchanting village, making it a must stop destination for Pilgrims walking The Camino and travellers as well who are exploring the region.

Pilgrims at the top of Alto Do San Roque
Pilgrims at the top of Alto Do San Roque

After stopping in O Cebreiro we had another long uphill stretch today ending at Alto do San Roque, which has an altitude of 1,270m, but for most of the way up it was so foggy we couldn’t see a thing.

Once we reached the top there is a magnificent statue of a pilgrim which is about 20ft tall and a great spot for a photograph.

Apparently the views from this spot are breathtaking, but with the fog we didn’t get to see any of them.

Pilgrims walking from Las Herrerias to Triacastela at the Pilgrim statue at Alto do San Roque
Pilgrims walking from Las Herrerias to Triacastela at the Pilgrim statue at Alto do San Roque
Sign at the top of Alto do san roque on route from Las Herrerias to Triacastela
Sign at the top of Alto do san roque on route from Las Herrerias to Triacastela

After a short stop in the fog, we started to work ourselves down from the top and suddenly realised we were in Galicia ! and the final push to get to Santiago de Compostela had started.

Did we want this adventure to end ? More on that as the days follow…

Pilgrims at the border of Galicia on the Camino de Santiago
Pilgrims at the border of Galicia on the Camino de Santiago

As we pressed on for the remainder of the day finally the fog started to disappear and we managed to get some views of the area we were walking through.

It was dense forest dotted with small villages and everything was very lush. On this and subsequent adventures on the Camino Ingles I have found that Galicia is like this a lot and can be very rainy at times, hence the green lush forest.

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a mountain pass between Las Herrerias and Tricastela
a mountain pass between Las Herrerias and Tricastela

After a while we started to notice lots of small churches in uninhabited places and lots of them had bells which could be rung from the outside. 

Were they some sort of messaging system from the past to be rung in times of danger ?  we never found out and if you know please do let me know.

But in true Pilgrim style I had to ring the bell myself. This one was in a small hamlet and think it was the Church of San Juan near Fonfria.

We eventually worked our way along this stretch of The Camino Frances and arrived in Triacastela. Today we walked our Millionth step and have been walking for 23 days so far.

We had to celebrate and had a few beers and some wine in the bars and cafes in the centre of town before getting another early night. Tomorrow we pass through Sarria and are expecting  a lot of new people to be on The Camino trail.

Pilgrims enjoying a drink in Triacastela
Pilgrims enjoying a drink in Triacastela

Bars and Cafes

Walking the Camino de Santiago is not just about the physical journey; it’s also about savoring the local cuisine and immersing yourself in the regional culture. 

Here are a few bars and cafes where you can refuel and connect with other pilgrims along this stretch of the Camino from Las Herrerias to Triacastela.

  1. Meson O Cebreiro: Located in O Cebreiro, this cozy establishment offers a selection of delicious tapas and traditional Galician dishes. It’s a great spot to relax and relish the flavors of the region.

  2. Casa Lucas: Situated in Fonfria, this traditional hotel delivers wholesome food and is vegetarian friendly. It’s a good opportunity to indulge in local gastronomy.

  3. Cafe Bar Pension Fernandez: Nestled in the heart of Triacastela, this welcoming bar offers a stunning view of the surrounding mountains. Enjoy a refreshing drink, engage in conversations with fellow pilgrims, and soak up the atmosphere of this charming village.

Albergues & Hostels

Along this stretch of the Camino de Santiago, you will find several albergues and hostels to accommodate your rest and relaxing requirements.

These pilgrim accommodations provide a unique communal atmosphere, fostering connections and camaraderie among fellow travelers.

Here are a few notable options:

  1. Albergue de Peregrinos de O Cebreiro: Located in O Cebreiro. This 104 bed albergue offers a cozy and rustic ambiance with comfortable bunk beds and shared facilities. Its friendly staff and welcoming pilgrim environment make it a popular choice. Its the first municipal albergue in Galicia.
  2. Pension Albergue Lemos: Found in the centre of Triacastela amongst the bars and cafes and even has triple rooms. Really good for a night away from a crowded Albergue.
  3. Hospederia Externa de Monasterio: Found in the small town of Samos, a short distance from Triacastela, this albergue is housed in a former monastery. The historical significance and peaceful atmosphere make it a memorable place to spend the night.
Check out all the Albergue and hotel accommodation options in Triacastela on booking.com


The Camino Frances from Las Herrerías to Triacastela is a tough but manageable journey that combines physical endurance, reflection and encounters with fellow Pilgrims from around the world.

There are lots of comfortable albergues and hostels as well as delightful bars and cafes along the way. 

This section of the Camino offers an enriching experience for pilgrims seeking adventure and self-discovery. So lace up your boots, grab your guidebook and embrace the beauty of Galicia and the Camino de Santiago.

Now is also a good time to find out How to get your Compostela after walking the Camino de Santiago.

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