Camino Frances Day 12 – Hornillos del Camino to Itero de la Vega

Another early start on Day 12 of the Camino Frances and our journey today takes us from Hornillos del Camino to Itero de la Vega via the medieval town of Castrojeriz.

We set off in the pitch black and didn’t see anything for over an hour. A head torch certainly comes in handy and I would recommend every Pilgrim takes on for their Camino.

Day 12 Overview

  • Distance – 31 km
  • From – Hornillos del Camino
  • To – Itero De la Vega
  • Min/Max Elevation – 765m/936m 
  • Elevation gain – 387m
  • Steps – 45,000

When the sun came up we walked for about 2 hrs in what I can only describe as feeling like we were in the Yorkshire dales, but only with hot weather. The scenery was breathtaking.

breattaking views of the camino

After this amazing few hours walking we came across a fantastic little village called Hontanas. We stopped here for breakfast which was really good. We ate at Meson Albergue el Puntido.

On the way in this tiny village. I took a picture of Pilgrim Bob & Burny which was one my favourite Camino pictures of the whole journey.


We set off again after breakfast heading for the old town of Castrojeriz but trouble is brewing. I have an old hairline fracture on my right foot and its starting to play up. 

Lets hope it doesn’t get worse and on top of that I’ve got a hot spot with what feels like a small blister going through.


After just short of 10km we arrived in the medieval town of Castrojeriz.  For Pilgrims who start walking from Castrojeriz they only have 450km to get to Santiago de Compostela.

Castrojeriz sits on a hill in the middle of the plains and is dominated by a castle from the IX century which sits on the top of the hill. castrojeriz used to have 8 Pilgrims hostels in the Middle Ages., the Camino de Santiago was that busy !

The French way route follows the Calle Oriente through the town and is harder walk than it looks. A lot of Pilgrims use castrojeriz as a stop over stage as it is a fabulous small town and has things to do whilst visiting.

All three of its churches are worth a visit, and a hike to the ruins of the castle provide a view of the surrounding land that is paralleled only by the climb out of town the next day.

In the main square is a small pilgrim shop as well as cafes, bars and supermarkets. There is also a shop selling walking and hiking gear and is a good place to stock up on things you may have lost or need, such as blister plasters etc

camino marker

We stopped and had coffee, took our walking boots off and took a rest for half hour as we knew there was a long walk out from the town. 

If you decide to stay here at the end of a walking stage check out the search button below for accommodation options.

Accommodation in Castrojeriz


Once you leave Castrojeriz, there is a long 5km walk out of town along a flat section and then step up onto the windy plains. 

It was tough work but the  view back when you get there is absolutely amazing. One of the best views on the French route pilgrimage.

looking back to castrojeriz
a cross on the Camino Frances

From here it easy walking across the plains passing through Puente Fitero before arriving into Itero de la Vega which is about a 12km walk. 

After todays walk from Hornillos del Camino to Itero de la Vega  which covered 32km we have now walked over 330km and over a third of the way to Santiago de Compostela. Just another 17 days to go.

Accommodation in Itero De la Vega

Itero De la Vega is a small little town with a couple of albergues, a hostel and a couple of small bars. Its an easy no nonsense stop on the Camino Frances.

Albergue Mochilla

Bookable by calling

+34 979 151 781

Albergue Hogar del Peregrinos

Bookable by calling

+34 979 151 866

I hope you enjoyed reading about the walking stage on Day 12 – Hornillos del Camino to Itero de la Vega. 

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