Camino Frances Jour 25 - De Barbadelo à Ventas de Naron

On todays journey we’re walking the Camino Frances Day 25 from Barbadelo to Ventas de Naron, and let me tell you, it’s not going to be a walk in the park.

One too many Pilgrim wines last night are taking its toll and Ive got my first hangover of the Camino.

Camino Frances Day 25 Overview

  • Distance – 32km
  • From – Barbadelo
  • To – Ventas de Naron
  • Min/Max Elevation – 344m/706m
  • Elevation gain – 839m
But before we dive into today’s adventure, let’s rewind a bit. Last night, we had an absolute blast with some newfound friends from the Great White North – Canada. 
 

Tina, Jordan, and their 14-year-old son, Mathew have walked the whole Camino Frances from Saint Jean Pied de Pont and had an absolute amazing journey.

We laughed, shared stories and created memories that will last a lifetime and, of course, we can’t forget our old buddies from Bermuda, Rob and Rex. 

Perhaps one too many glasses of white Rioja were clinked in celebration and the Albergue Barbadelo will live long in the memory.

swimming pool at Albergue Casa Barbadelo near Sarria
swimming pool at Albergue Casa Barbadelo near Sarria

An early Pilgrim start to the day

Our day started bright and early at 6:15 AM as we left Albergue Barbadelo. I was feeling a tad tired after a few glasses of wine last night.

We walked about 9 kilometres and by 8:20 AM, we rewarded ourselves with a delightful coffee break and a cafe con leche.

After 25 days we’re a well-oiled pilgrim machine leaving early in the morning so we don’t have to walk in the hot Spanish sun.

However, I must admit, I goofed up today. As I was writing earlier, I felt all energetic and ready to take on the world. But then it hit me like a ton of bricks – I forgot to have breakfast. 

Around the 20 kilometer mark, dizziness crept in, and the struggle became real. 

Thankfully, we made it to Portomarin after a grueling 20 kilometers, and my saviour arrived in the form of an omelette and a piping hot cup of coffee. Crisis averted.

Lunch in Portomarin of eggs and tomatoes

The walk down into Portomarin is by road or alternatively down a really tough steep descent. I slipped a couple of times on the way down so be careful if you take this route.

Climbing down the shortcut into Portomarin

Portomarin

Portomarín is indeed a notable stop on the Camino Frances, and is located on the way to Ventas de Naron. 

This charming town is steeped in history and offers pilgrims a unique experience as they continue their journey along the Camino de Santiago trail.

Historical Significance: Portomarín is renowned for its historical and architectural importance. One of its most distinctive features is the Church of San Juan, an impressive Romanesque structure. 

Interestingly, the entire church was dismantled and relocated stone by stone to its current location when the Belesar Reservoir was created in the 1960s. It’s a testament to the preservation of cultural heritage.

Scenic Beauty: The town is situated along the Miño River, which adds to its scenic appeal. As you approach Portomarín, you’ll be treated to stunning views of the river and the surrounding landscapes. 

The stone bridge that spans the river is not only a beautiful sight but also an important marker on the Camino.

Réservoir de Portomarin
Pilgrims on the bridge in portomarin

Pilgrim Services: Portomarín offers essential services for weary pilgrims. You’ll find accommodations, restaurants, and shops to restock your supplies. 

It’s a great place to take a breather, refuel and interact with fellow pilgrims on the trail.

Cultural Experience: Walking through Portomarín provides a unique glimpse into Galician culture. You can savour local cuisine, including Galician octopus, and engage with the friendly locals who are accustomed to receiving pilgrims on their journey.

Religious Heritage: Apart from the Church of San Juan, Portomarín is also home to the Chapel of the Virxe das Dores, which is worth a visit. 

The religious significance of this town is deeply intertwined with the Camino pilgrimage.

the church of San Nicolás in the centre of Portomarin

Relaxing Atmosphere: Portomarín offers a more relaxed and slower pace compared to some of the larger cities on the Camino. 

It’s a place where you can take a moment to appreciate the journey, enjoy a leisurely meal, and soak in the tranquil surroundings.

Lively Camino Community: The town’s role as a stopping point for Camino pilgrims means that you’ll encounter a vibrant community of fellow travelers. 

It’s a great place to share stories, compare notes on the journey, and maybe even find a walking companion for the next leg of your adventure.

In summary, Portomarín is a town rich in history and culture. It’s a bridge between the past and the present, and an essential stop along the Camino Frances on your way to Ventas de Naron.

As we savour our meal, we can’t help but chat about what reaching Santiago de Compostela will feel like. 

After 24 days of relentless walking on the Camino trail, we’re itching to get there, but there’s a touch of trepidation in the air. 

It’s a peculiar mix of excitement and nerves. With only a few days to go we’ve talked about not wanting to get there for the first time.

The anticipation is building, and we can’t wait to see what the end of this incredible journey has in store for us.

After leaving Portomarin the afternoon turned out to be a bit more taxing than we expected, especially for me. Those descents from the hills were a real challenge. 

But you know what they say, every step on the Camino is a step closer to self-discovery.

We passed through the small villages of Gonzar, Castromaior and Hospital da Cruz before we arrived in Ventas de Naron.

After a long day on the road I normally look forward to a beer but yesterdays wine was still effecting me so I had a little nap.

Les daily life of a Pilgrim on the Camino de Santiago can change a little but the basics are there every day. Walk, eat, sleep and repeat.

And so, our Camino Frances adventure continues, one step at a time. First I need to have a lie down in my Albergue after a long day.

Albergues in ventas de Naron

There are only 2 Albergues in Ventas de Naron as its a small Camino village and very typical of lots of villages along the Way.

We stayed in Casa Molar and had a fabulous stay. The hosts we’re great and very helpful. 

The Albergue courtyard is also a lovely place to chill and talk with other Pilgrims.

Albergue Casa Molar

  • 22 Beds, 4 Rooms
  • Dorm €12, Room €30
  • Commodités - salles de bains communes
  • Open – March to November
  • Show on map

Bar, restaurant, WiFi

Logo de la réservation
Great for Pilgrims
Spacious terrace
Great service
 
MON CHOIX
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Mark Stevens

Je suis une passionnée de marche longue distance et je suis tombée amoureuse du Camino de Santiago en 2016 lorsque j'ai parcouru le Chemin Français pour la première fois. Je marche et blogue depuis lors et mon objectif est d'aider tous les pèlerins avec des conseils de randonnée et de marche. Toujours heureux d'aider avec des questions.

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