We’re walking from Viloria del Rioja to Villafranca Montes de Oca on Day 9 of our pilgrimage on the Camino Frances and today we actually got to see a Spanish wedding !
After 8 days on the Camino and walking nearly 200km so far we have decided to do a shorter day and rest up in the afternoon sunshine.
Camino Frances Day 9 Overview
- Distance – 23km
- From – Viloria del Rioja
- To – Villafranca Montes de Oca
- Min/Max Elevation – 756m/949m
- Elevation gain – 321m
- Steps – 30,000
We ended up having a great meal last night in Viloria del Rioja cooked by our hosts in this fantastic donativo called the Parada Viloria (well worth staying here)
Its a one stop village but very peaceful and chilled out, and only has a couple go Albergue options.
The sleeping arrangements were a bit close but its an albergue and we coped. I have never stayed in an albergue with bunk beds so close to each other.
After yesterday’s long walk we have a short 23km journey to Villafranca Montes de Oca. We’ve decided to head for this town and wait up here as we have a large mountain to get over the day after and the next stop is nearly 15km further away.
It’s about an 8km walk to Belorado before we get to stop for our first breakfast. We we’re very hungry Pilgrims.
On this Camino Frances journey I have been using the best Camino Guidebook for the French way written by John Brierley.
The map detailed above is from the guide and I recommend using this book for your pilgrimage.
St. Jean Pied de Port - Santiago de Compostela - Finisterre
- Numéro 1 des guides du Camino Frances
- Profils d'élévation et profils cartographiques
- Détails étape par étape
- Informations historiques et culturelles
- 19,9 onces
- 288 pages
BELORADO
Breakfast in the central square in Belorado was very good. The square is full of some really funky trees and we ate in the early morning sunshine amongst bars , cafes and lots of other Pilgrims on the Camino.
One village to remember for my next Camino Frances as its looks a lovely place to stay.
The castle ruins here are a sign of the towns defensive past straddling the old border of Castile and its roman origins.
The area at its base known as El Carro was granted the first ever license to have a ‘town market’ by Alfonso 1st in 1116.
Belorado is also known for the Feria Alfonsina festival which includes some bull running in the town. That’s one thing I want to see on this Camino and haven’t had the chance as yet.
After our Camino breakfast we then hit the trail and had a 10km slog through wheat fields in the hot sun.
This section was a little bit boring but we powered through just chatting with other pilgrims as we walked.
It was so hot today I really did need my Camino Buff to keep the sun off my head.
It was an amazing and feels great to be alive. We’re feeling fitter and stronger the more walking we do and my calf muscles seem to be growing in size too.
We have decided to treat ourselves a little and are staying at an old 14th century pilgrim house in Villafranca Montes de Oca called Albergue San Anton Abad. The building is amazing.
We checked in and came out and discovered a Spanish wedding about to happen. What a brilliant experience to see everyone so full of joy.
Planificateur et journal du Camino
I’ve recently self published a Camino Frances Planner & Journal to help new and old Pilgrims with their preparation for this amazing pilgrimage.
Planificateur et journal du Camino Frances
- Suivez vos progrès et votre préparation
- Détails kilométriques ville par ville
- Suivi des dépenses
- Suivi de l'entraînement
- Journal quotidien et journal de bord
- Pages vides pour les timbres
Villafranca montes de Oca
Nestled in the shadow of the old “dangerous” Mountains of Oca, this centre has been known, since the founding of the Camino, as the last stop before tackling the complicated next stage.
The mountains of Oca were legendary landscapes, evocative and feared in the middle Ages due to the continued presence of bandits who, protected by the dense surrounding woods, assaulted the pilgrims.
The Codex Calixtino refers to this place as Nemus oque. Today, however, it is solitude and silence that presides over this place of great beauty, a natural division between the Ebro and Duero.
Consultez le site Pilgrim Camino de Santiago Statistics and the popular starting points along the way.
In search of a cold beer we found a local bar, ordered a couple of beers and asked for some tapas or ‘pintxos’ as they call it here.
We didn’t know what we would get but by god was it nice !
Our Pintxos included chicken, pork, rabbit, black pudding, chorizo bread and olives ! More protein than we’ve had for a week.
It literally was a meat feast and one of the best meals I’ve had on the whole Camino Frances, Camino Ingles ou Camino del Norte.
It was absolutely fabulous et I recommend eating at Bar Nuevo Meson
Villafranca Montes de Oca Albergues
We stayed at the wonderful Hotel San Anton Abad in Villafranca Montes de Oca.
It is a fabulous hotel and no doubt expensive but the owner has walked The Camino de Santiago and wants to give ‘something back’ so they have a hostel for Pilgrims and we thoroughly enjoyed it and their pilgrim hospitality.
Casa Rural La Alpargateria
- 8 rooms
- €35-40 per room
- Amenities - Private Bathrooms
- 15th April to 15th October
- Afficher sur la carte
Hotel San Anton abad
- 8 rooms
- €35-40 per room
- €5-10 for the albergue
- Amenities - Private Bathrooms
- March to November
- Afficher sur la carte
I hope you enjoyed reading about the walking stage on Day 9 Viloria del Rioja to Villafranca Montes de Oca.
Enjoy reading about Day 10 which sees us walking from Villafranca Montes de Oca to Burgos.
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